To start with, you have to make a circle for the top panel.
To achieve this, you need to measure the hips of your girl. Then, you need to find the radius of your circle. The equation to do that is hips+2 divided by 3.14 divided by 2=radius. The width of your fabric will depend on how large you want the panels to be. In this case, I wanted the final skirt to be 10-12 inches long so I made each panel 6 inches wide.
Take your panel and fold and fold it again so you have a rectangle folded twice. From the folded corner, measure your radius and mark it. Get something circular to trace a circle of that radius. Remember that radius is a straight line from the center to the circumference of a circle or sphere.
You can find your radius by measuring from the corner down that length on each side of the double folded corner. Measure out that far into the fabric and mark. That is your radius. Lay your circle template on top of that mark so it curves from one point to the other, thru the mark in the middle.
Here is my example.
I cut the top circle and then measured down 6 inches and cut another circle of same curvature.
I used my ruler to do this. I marked the fabric every inch or so and cut on those markings.
Now, to make the bottom panels. Remember, they are 6 inches wide. To know how long to cut, you measure the bottom of the circle and times by two. Cute two panels out for that width and length, in this case 6 inches wide by 36 inches long.
This skirt is going to have two different fabrics on the bottom. I cut two rectangles each 6" X 36". The purple is for the waistband casing. To make the waistband casing, measure the inner circle. Cut a rectangle 2.5 inches by this length, plus a one inch in length to account for seam allowance.
The purple, below, is for the waist.
You can find your radius by measuring from the corner down that length on each side of the double folded corner. Measure out that far into the fabric and mark. That is your radius. Lay your circle template on top of that mark so it curves from one point to the other, thru the mark in the middle.
Here is my example.
I cut the top circle and then measured down 6 inches and cut another circle of same curvature.
I used my ruler to do this. I marked the fabric every inch or so and cut on those markings.
Now, to make the bottom panels. Remember, they are 6 inches wide. To know how long to cut, you measure the bottom of the circle and times by two. Cute two panels out for that width and length, in this case 6 inches wide by 36 inches long.
This skirt is going to have two different fabrics on the bottom. I cut two rectangles each 6" X 36". The purple is for the waistband casing. To make the waistband casing, measure the inner circle. Cut a rectangle 2.5 inches by this length, plus a one inch in length to account for seam allowance.
The purple, below, is for the waist.
Time to add embellishments, if any.
Next, sew the panels together into one big loop. Hem the bottom how you see fit: rolled hem, fold twice and sew, or serge and fold once and sew. Then, gather the whole thing. I recommend you try one of two methods for gathering: a) zig zag over fishing line, pin panels to upper tier, and pull on fishing line to gather; or b) sew two loose stitches, near the upper edge, pin panels ot upper tier, and pull on one stitch to gather.
Now, attach the ruffled lower panel to the bottom of the upper circle tier.
Now, attach the ruffled lower panel to the bottom of the upper circle tier.
This is not as easy at it looks so go slow and work carefully.
Consider taking a breather to pet the cat resting on the floor next to you.
This is Jake. He enjoys flipping in a patch of sun, right in the path between my two machines.
Next, finish the hem between the layers.
To make the waist casing, fold the fabric in half, wrong sides together, and iron flat. You will now have a 1.25" by waist length casing. Sew this into a loop with a 1/2" seam allowance and then attach to the circle, leaving a few inches open for elastic insertion. Finish the hem between casing and upper circle tier, except for the opening.
Measure your girl's waist. Subtract 2 to 3 inches for stretch and cut that length of 3/4" or 1" elastic.
Or, use this handy elastic cutting guide.
Size 2 cut 16"
Size 4 cut 18"
Size 6 cut 19"
Size 8 cut 21"
Size 10 cut 22"
Size 12 cut 23"
Size 14 cut 24"
Insert into the casing, pull all the way through, and then sew the casing closed.
Serge the now closed opening.
The skirt above is a size four. Here's a size chart for other sizes. This accounts for a half inch seam allowance on all seams.
For sizes 2-15, cut waist casing 2.5 inches by measurement of inner circle.
For sizes 2-6, cut panels 36 inches long
For sizes 8-14, cut panels width of fabric.
The width of your panels depends on the size of your girl. The measurement from waist to where you want the hem to be is how long the skirt will be in total. Add two inches for seam allowance, divide by two. That is how wide your panels should be.
ReplyDeleteLove this!! Thank you for sharing Kathy!
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