How to keep your bobbins organized

 Check out my amazing new toy, err, sewing notion. Yes, I finally invested a small sum into making my bobbin disaster more neat and tidy. No, this is not a paid review. I am reviewing this and putting it my know to sew series because I am so pleased with this product!  I am sewing so much lately, that my bobbins were piling up in their organizer box. So, I did some research and discovered this amazing tool called the Stack 'n Store, by Nancy Zeiman for Clover.  Click on the picture below to check this baby out on Amazon!  (affiliate link, so I might earn a few cents if you buy one!)

Here is how it works.  You take your pile of bobbins and thread, untangle them, wind the thread completely around each bobbin, and insert them into the holders, as you see below. Each holder is shaped like a horseshoe and made of something like plastic or silicone, so they are bendable but they hold the bobbin in place. You can store five bobbins per level, they stack, they swivel, you can re-arrange them, you can buy more. 

THIS IS THE MOST BRILLIANT THING I HAVE EVER SEEN!

Did I mention that they SWIVEL?

If you sew, you must have this. It really doesn't cost a lot! But it is brilliant.  Seriously!!! 

Using canned air to clean a serger or sewing machine

Today, I am going to talk about whether you should be using canned air to clean any of your sewing machines.  This is controversial so I thought I would do some research for you so you know if it is right or wrong. I spent several hours, today, reading all manner of blogs, serger manuals, and sewing forums.

Canned air is the nickname for compressed gas duster products you can find at most office supply stores. I buy mine at Office Max, as you can see, but this is not intended as an endorsement for that store. It is located in the same parking lot as Joann Fabrics and, well, you can now understand why I shop there.

Canned air, or compressed gas duster, is not air at all.  It is a compressed fluorocarbon gas that is recommended to clean hard to reach places that cannot get wet, such as some vents on computers.  The can contains a fluorocarbon gas compressed into a liquid for storage. When you spray it, it comes out as gas and blows particulates, like dust, off of or out of what you are cleaning.

 [Warnings: Do not ever breathe it in, because it is not air and it is toxic. Do not put the can around children or pets. Do not shake the can. Do not use it past when it gets cold. A few seconds, at most, is all it is meant to be used. ]


Now some people say these cans are okay to use to clean sergers or sewing machines. My own Janome dealer said I could use it to clean my serger only but not my sewing machine.  And here is why: compressed gas dusters, or canned air, blow too hard for delicate machinery. Your sewing machine is too delicate for canned air.  Your serger might be too delicate or it might be a hardy soul, like my Janome.  If your serger does not open up on both sides, you could blow the dust and lint further up into your machine. If you use it on your sewing machine, you risk the same thing, that the lint and dust will blow up inside the machine and cause problems.

But my Janome 1110DX serger opens up on both side. As you can see in this picture below, I open up the side AND the front to clean it. And I angle the can so the air is blowing out the side. I do the same with the side, angle it so the can is blowing out the front. I am not blowing the compressed gas up into the machine. And I am keeping the compressed gas duster far enough away from the machine that it is not doing damage.

That is how you can successfully clean your serger using compressed gas duster or canned air. GENTLY.  If you read around the internet, which I did today, this is the concern with the canned air, that you will not be gentle enough and do damage to your machine. So, there, now you know how you can use canned air successfully!

So, in case you are interested, here is how I clean my machine between projects.

First I open it up and blow.

 

Then, I take my vacuum hose and vacuum in and around. You should see the mess I've blown out! Some people buy a small vacuum just for this purpose that is more gentle than your household vacuum. In that case, you might be able to get closer to your machinery than I do.

  

 Now, even after all that, there is still lint. Look!  Oops! I forgot to remove the thread! You should do that first! And remove your needles and needle plate, if you want to do a really thorough cleaning. I am just doing a quickie so I left those in this time.

Third step is taking the little brush and very carefully removing all the lint I can find.

Be sure to put the knife down so you can clean the wads of lint behind it!  Wow, there was a lot in there.

Now, I follow my owner's manual's instructions to oil my machine. I use Singer brand oil made especially for sewing machines. That is not an endorsement but please use sewing machine oil, not cooking oil.   

You should be oiling your machine once a week if you use it often! That is what my manual says!

My final step is to take the anti-static wipes meant for computer monitors and give the flat parts a good wiping down. I use anti-static wipes because I do not want to add static electricity while wiping, which you might do if you use regular wipes. Also, computer wipes are much drier than other wipes so I know I will not be adding unnecessary moisture to my machines.

There! Now my serger is all clean and ready for Project Run and Play part 2!

Choosing pattern size - what is "true to size?"

Today's Know to Sew topic is pattern size - how do you choose which size to sew and what does it mean to be "true to size?"  As administrator of a Facebook sewing group for going on four years now, I have seen this question many times: "Is this pattern true to size?"  

Well, let me first tell you a little story about my little babies E and P. Here they are, on the days they were born. 

Baby P, 6 lbs, 17 inches, barely on the growth chart (5th percentile)

Baby E, 9.6 lbs, 22 inches, 95th percentile.

Why am I showing these adorable pictures? Because here are two newborns, my two girls as newborns, and neither were typical newborn size! One was very small, too big for premie clothing, too small for 0-3 month clothing. The other was in 3-6 month clothing from birth! And yet, they were both true to their own size!  And different brands fit them differently. P's first brand of clothing was Old Navy, which run very small. Gap have always been too long for her legs.  E moved into 3-6 month size Gap clothing and has always been a Gap fan because her legs are soooo long.  They both have different body types and different brands fit them differently.  

My point? There is no true to size in clothing you buy at the store.  It depends on your size, your body shape, your figure.  If are curvy with medium-sized legs, one brand might work great for you but not for the person who has slim hips and long legs.  

There is no brand that is completely true to size because we humans vary so much in size and shape.  And this rule applies to the clothing you buy and the patterns you sew from. 

So, how do you determine which size pattern to buy?  

You use this tool and you use it more than once. 

Take my E, for example.  It took me three times to get the accurate measurements for her that you see above because she is so wiggly! And, the first time I measured her chest, I didn't realize she was puffing it out.  LOL Silly girl. So, I measured again and then one last time for accuracy.

So, which size is E?  According to pattern size charts:

Millie Rose patterns size 7

Monkeysbug patterns size 6

Ruffle Bunnies patterns size 4

Jocole patterns size 7

BrownieGoose patterns size 4-5

Tie Dye Diva patterns size 6X

Handmaiden's Cottage patterns chest size 4T, length size 6

This just has to make me laugh a little. She is all over the map because she is so slim.  But, I don't want her dresses to look like tunics so I have to account for length, too. I cannot make her a size 4 dress because she is a size 7 tall!   This is where tailoring comes in handy. You can take a size 4 bodice and add a size 7 skirt, for length.  And you can make a muslin first and then tailor that to your child. Then, you go from there.  If you have the opposite issue with your child and you need less length and more width, please check out my making patterns your own series parts one and parts two where I explain how to add width and take away length. 

So, remember, there is no true to size, there is only true to your size. 

PS If you want to know how to choose a pattern for a grownup, Tilly and the Buttons has a great post.

Know to sew - sewing needles

Today's Know to Sew topic is sewing needles! Needles are one of the most important things to consider when you are sewing. Did you know that when your stitches or tension are not looking pretty, it can mean it is time to change your needle? I don't remember learning that until just recently and I have been sewing since 1978! It is true, however, and I am going to teach you why, plus give you some other info about sewing needles.

First of all, let's talk about the parts of a needle.

The butt is where you insert the needle into the machine and the shank is the part your hand holds while you do so. In home sewing needles, the shank will be flat. In industrial needles, however, the shank could be rounded or notched. Shanks allow for perfect positioning.  The blade has a different diameter depending on size and, of course, size depends on sewing purpose. The groove cradles the thread and guides it to the eye. The scarf is the indentation above the eye that allows the bobbin to hook smoothly and create a stitch. The scarf size and shape vary by needle size. The eye is the hole through which the needle passes. The point is where the needle narrows to the tip.  The point and tip size, shape, and length will vary by needle size.

So, what does all of this mean? It means that you need to choose your needle size and type wisely, depending on what you are sewing. And, it means you need to change your needle often, about every four hours of sewing.  Yes, you read that correctly. Change your needle about every 4 hours of sewing time. Why? Because needl tips get bent, damaged, or broken very easily. And, they get burs very easily. This means that the needle will literally get a small change in shape, causing stitches to skip and/or tension issues. Here is a closeup, care of Schmetz, of a dull needle with a bur.  With each magnification, you can see more and more of the problems!  That microscopic bur can cause a lot of sewing issues including skipped or uneven stitches, puckering of fabric, damage to fabric, and popping sounds as you sew.

So, now which needle do you choose? There are many brands of needles. My favorites are Superior and Schmetz. Many sewing machine companies also make their own brand of needles. It does not matter which brand you use as long as it is the right type for your sewing.  However, some brands are better than others and worth the money. For example, Superior brand Titanium topstitching needles do not need to be changed every 4 hours as they are stronger than the average needle. They are, therefore, worth the extra cost as they last you longer. No name brand needles might not even last four hours.  So, definitely play around with brand to find the one you like the best.

Schmetz has a lot of wonderful guides on their website to help you choose which type of needle is best for which project.  Even if you don't use their brand, it will help you understand needle types.  The home needle guide will help you understand all the needle basics while the ABC Pocket guide to needles will help you shop. They even have a smartphone app in the itunes store!   Read these two thoroughly to learn everything you need to know about which needle to choose.  But, in a nutshell, you need to choose the type of needle to fit the type of fabric you will be using.  Here's a quickie guide:

The type of needle for our fabric depends on your project.  The numbers indicate the size of the needle.  75 equals a blade diameter of 75 mm.   The ABC pocket guide lists dozens of fabric types and gives needle recommendations.  You can use an universal needle BUT remember that your sewing will look better if you use a specific needle to match your exact project.  For knit fabrics, for example, sewing with a jersey, stretch, or ball point needle will definitely make a huge difference in how your stitches appear because regular needles have a sharp point that can cause runs in the fabric. The smaller numbers (needle diameter) are best for lighter fabrics while the larger numbers are best for heavier fabrics. The home needle guide will give you specific information about WHY each type of needle is made for that specific fabric.

So, remember change your needle about every four hours of sewing and choose the right needle for your project.  If your tension starts to get off for no apparent reason, it is probably time to change your needle!

PS Here's a shopping tip: if you sew a lot, try buying your needles in bulk! You will save money that way. Look at WAWAK's website, ebay, or google to find prices.

What you need to know to sew Fabric Content

A few days ago, I was at Joann's fabrics, here in town, for some muslin.   I just needed a few yards of it because I had run out and I am lining some potentially itchy, glittery fabric on dresses.  While I was in the muslin section, another lady was looking back and forth and all around, very confused. She asked me where to find the colored muslin.  I showed her the wall behind us, floor to ceiling with colored broadcloth. "I think that is the only colored fabric close to muslin," I told her. We conversed about sewing clothing and types of fabrics until she commented that all she wanted was something to make burp cloths! I pointed her towards the terrycloth fabric and she thanked me for my help. 

That experience made me realize that sometimes we don't know the names of the types of fabrics! I have a slight brain fog when it comes to remembering terms. I am practically a genuis at describing color and feel (at least I think I am) but remember the terms is hard for me. So, I have decided to launch a series called "What you need to know to sew" or, simply, "know to sew" for short! For my first post in this series, I am going to to explain the different types of fabric!!

 Have you ever been to Fabric.com's glossary of fabric terms page? Oh my goodness, look at all those types of fabric! How do you know for sure what you need for your project? Well, your pattern should tell you, for one, but what if it gives you options? How do you choose? Let's start, first, with what fabric is made of, otherwise known as fiber content. 

Fiber Content
Fiber content refers to the raw material making up the yarns and fabric. It can be natural, such as cotton, wool, linen, alpaca, and other specialty fibers; man-made from natural plant products, such as rayon or acetate; or synthetic from petroleum products, such as polyester, nylon, acrylic, olefin, or spandex. Fiber content affects appearance, comfort, durability, costs, and care of fabrics. 

Cotton

Most of us probably know, in our heads, a bit about cotton. We know that it comes from a plant and it used to be grown a lot in the USA and now is mostly grown in India.  The history of cotton is part of the history of the labor movement, in the USA.  It used to be picked by slaves, spun by children. Now, we have labor laws and civil rights. But we still have cotton!  It is my favorite fiber.  It is versatile and durable and comes in many different weaves.

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Silk

The history of silk is equally fascinating. The method of taking the cocoons of worms and turning that fiber into the most beautiful fabric in the world was founded in China several thousands of years ago. The silk road, the road between Europe and China, refers to the extremely long trip men would take to travel to and from China, simply for this exotic fabric.  And how on earth did the Chinese figure out to take the silk worm's cocoon and boil it and unravel the fiber and then weave it into amazing fabrics? It's almost unbelievable that they did figure it out. Silk is a very durable fiber but doesn't hold up well when exposed to light and moisture.

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 Linen

 Linen is one of the oldest fibers. Its use dates back at least 4000 years.  Linen comes from the flax plant, the same plant we use for flax seeds and lineseed oil.  Today's linen is very strong and varies in quality and price. Slubs indicate lesser quality; however, that should not stop you from owning this marvelous fiber. It does wrinkle easily but that just means you can overlook ironing. It is linen, after all!  I am not sure exactly how they take this plant and turn it into a fiber but it somehow comes from the stalk.

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Hemp

 Hemp fabric is made from fibers taken from the cannabis plant. The kind of cannabis used to make fiber is different from the plant used to make marijauna. The two should not be confused. You cannot smoke your hemp teeshirt, for example. Well, you could, but it would only make you annoyed at the loss of your tee.  Hemp has many uses.  Fabric is just one of them.  Hemp, as a fiber, is remarkable versatile and strong.  

 Just look at all the uses!  

And it is legal to use.

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Nylon

 Nylon was invented as an alternative to silk.  It is a polymer, basically a plastic.  It can be used in many forms, not just in fabric. It was first popularized, as fiber, during World War II, when the war machine needed an alternative to silk for parachutes. Women were encouraged to turn in their nylon stockings and go without.  Nylon is stretchy, resistant to mold, durable, melts when exposed to fire (as opposed to silk with burns), and is cheap to make! Nylon is added to silk and cotton to make it stretchy.

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Polyster

Polyster is a man-made fiber, created from esters and long-chain polymers.  I don't remember my high school chemistry but here is more information on that process.  Polyester can be used in just about ever fabric venue, from furniture covers to socks to underwear to suits. It is durable, cheap to make, and does not wrinkle. It lasts a very long time.  I am a huge fan of polyester fleece. Living in the Pacific Northwest, we all wear  fleece from head to toe at least half the year.  My favorite brand is LLBean (no they do not sponsor me, I just like their products).

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Rayon

 Rayon is a fascinating fiber. It is made from wood pulp. You got it, from trees. How on earth they figured out how to make a fiber from pulp is beyond me. Somehow, it has to be related to toilet paper, but that is about as far as my brain can go.  Viscose rayon is basically artificial silk.  Rayon, however, can also be made to feel like cotton, wool, or linen. It can be woven to have many textures. Rayon is durable but it does not absorb body heat. So, it is a great fiber for tropical or warm climates. Rayon has low elastic recovery when wet. That means it turns hard and looks odd when it is wet. Let it dry and iron it and it will be just fine.

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Bamboo

 Bamboo is a fascinating fiber. It's popularity is soaring we people realize that bamboo fabrics are amazing. Bamboo is a fast-growing plant, which means it counts as sustainable. The fabric is made from the stem. The process is similar to making paper but the bamboo produces a softer fiber, which makes it ideal for fabric. Bamboo first became popular as a fiber about 10 years ago and is soaring in popularity. You can find it in almost every aspect of fabric production, from diapers to tees to skirts to pants. It is everywhere.

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There are actually many more forms and types of fabric but I am going to stop here because this is what most of us choose from when sewing for our families.  If you want to learn more, I highly recommend you consult wiki!  Check the sources at the bottom of each page on wiki for even more information. 

 Next week, please join me as I talk about types of fabric: charmeuse, chiffon jaquard,  velvet, velour, denim, grey, satin, knit and more. 

Look for this "know to sew" series, every Wednesday or Thursday!!