Friday, March 22, 2013

Tie Dye Diva Square Neck Butterfly Tops

Wait, you say, Tie Diva Patterns doesn't have a pattern called the Square Neck Butterfly Top.  What is this about?  Well, I combined my of two favorite patterns!  The Tie Dye Diva Square Neck Top Pattern with the her Butterfly Dress Pattern.  Et Voila!



  


In the children's boutique clothing world, there is a clothing company with the initials MJC and they made a cut top, last year, called the shabby.  I really liked it and a friend loaned me one, last year, so I could make a copy of it with the same Anna Griffin Riley circus fabric I  used above.  She sent me the shabby top and the fabric and I used the top as a model to make her daughter another one.  The shabby fit her daughter well and she wanted another top of that style. But, there were no patterns like it. Hence, she sent me the original to use. 

Cut to 2013. I wanted to make a couple of tops like this for my daughter.   Luckily, Tie Dye Diva has two lovely patterns that have elements similar to this cute top.  The Butterfly has the flutter sleeves and I also like the way the Butterfly bodice attaches to the skirt.  Further, the Butterfly has nicely done armhole facings. The Square Neck has the squared bodice as well as the length I like and the Butterfly has the tuxedo ruffle directions.  And I own them both.  ( I was a pattern tester for both!)

So, I put them together. Here's how I did it.   First of all, buy them both.  You won't regret it. You will use them over and over again.   

Next up, you are going to cut out the top following the Square Neck pattern directions. The only exceptions are the armhole facing and the flutter sleeve. 



For the flutter sleeve, I wanted to make it more narrow than the Butterfly dress sleeve.  The sleeve I cut out, in size 6, was four inches across at the point where it says "fold."  So, I took one inch off each side.  For smaller sizes, I suggest cutting off 1/4 of the width from either side, as I did.  



For the armhole facing, I made bias tape using the pattern piece from the Butterfly pattern.

First up, the bodice.  I followed the directions on the Square Neck pattern but added the flutter sleeves and tuxedo ruffle, as per the Butterfly's directions.  Below, you the steps as I sewed the ruffle and sleeves to the outer bodice and then added the lining.  Trust me, Tie Dye Diva's directions for doing these sleeves is fool-proof and simple!!  They will look great, just like mine.





The Square Neck top directions include sewing the skirt inside the bodice but I decided to just sew my skirt to the bodice and the serge and topstitch.  So, you see the serged product above. My fabric was fraying something awful so I wanted to keep it serged as much as possible. 


 

Next up, I added the armhole facing, following directions on the Butterfly pattern.  The Square Neck Top pattern has the option of just folding down the fabric to make a self seam.  I like the fun of doing the binding with a contrasting fabric.


I added some finishing touches. My daughter's name begins with E and she picked out these E buttons.  One went on front, one went in the back to close the bodice.


And the finished product, one more time.


I had so much fun doing this, I did it again! This time I doubled the width of the skirt and made it twirly. I made it shorter, too, so it is a bit more of a babydoll look. My daughter thinks it will be perfect for a hot, summer day.  

Happy Sewing!


Tuesday, March 19, 2013

Jen of Tie Dye Diva - Pattern Designer Interview











1. When did you start designing patterns and how did it come about?

--> I released my first PDF pattern in 2007. It was a natural progression of my obsession with cute kids' clothes and my passion for sewing.

2. What training do you have or how did you learn?
 
--> I've been sewing since I was a teenager, and have immersed myself in the study of pattern making and grading for several years now. I am always learning.

3. What is the process of designing a new pattern like?
 
--> I keep a pile of printed croquis on hand - proportional body templates of babies and children that I can sketch on when the mood hits. Usually I'm inspired by a smaller detail like a sleeve, or a combination of one or two elements rather than coming up with a fully-formed garment idea, but occasionally a whole pattern just springs to life. I tear from magazines, catalogs, etc, and keep it all in folders. Then I get to work replicating my ideas with fabric, refining the pattern, grading, writing and photographing the instructions, digitizing and editing photos, assembling the testing team, and so forth.


 PS. That's my cutie pie in the dress I made her from this pattern. 


4. What is the hardest part about designing a pattern in pdf form?
 
--> All the time at the computer. Sewing and sketching is a very small part of the creation process (you know that internet meme about "what I really do"? Don't imagine me glamorously draping a mannequin, but sitting behind a computer with piles of paper and fabric scraps all around and serger tails stuck to my shirt.) Drafting, digitizing, grading, photo editing, drawing diagrams, writing instructions, administering multiple websites/online shops, marketing and promoting online, and providing customer support and service - and I am sure there are things I am leaving out - it all requires long stretches of time on the computer. With 3 kids I love to pieces, it's hard to find the time and also the discipline! I'd rather be playing with fabric, or playing Candy Land for that matter, but long hours at the computer really forms the biggest part of pattern design.

5. What is your favorite of your patterns and why?
 
--> Tough question! I love them all, but if I have to choose, for this season, I'm in love with the Daydreamer Dress. The cover photo captures exactly what I wanted it to look like and feel like for your the little girl wearing it. Plus a friend of mine encouraged me to give the design a go. 




6. Do you sew for your own family or for sale? What do you prefer more, sewing or pattern design, and why?
 
--> --> I don't sew for sale at all, and not even much for my family - this cobbler's children have no shoes! Sewing is a real treat for me. After all this time it's still my favorite hobby as well as my business. 


 Did you know she makes patterns for more than just kid's clothing?  There are hats, diaper covers, doll dresses, and more!! 

7. Have you learned anything from feedback from customers that you would like to share with other designers or wanna-be designers?
 
--> I've gotten many compliments on the way my instructions anticipate common errors and prevent them before they happen.


8. Best time and place to design?
 
--> On my window seat in the sun when I can, but (see above) much of the intensive drafting and grading can only take place at my desk, in silence, when there are no kids around. -->

 9. Favorite fabric of all time?

--> Ooh. First you want a favorite pattern, now a favorite fabric! 
I'd have to say Joel Dewberry Aviary (original) Sparrows in pink. You can see it on the cover/listing photos for Baby Butterfly Top.

 

10. Favorite thing to do for fun?
 
--> Beach comb. Being in the sun + thrill of finding sea glass and other beautiful treasures = heaven.

Jen's patterns are the first pdf patterns I ever bought and they had me hooked.  I need more visuals to help me sew than a paper pattern can give. I love how pdf patterns show step-by-step directions and Jen's are among the best.  I have gotten to the point where I now test for, which is a lot of fun.  

Stay tuned for a few more pattern designer interviews to come....... 



Wednesday, March 13, 2013

Google is powering down

Did you read the news?  Google is going to be powering down it's Reader in July.  How sad. I love seeing Reader on my Google homepage and scrolling quickly through the blogs I subscribe to.  Google does plan to shut down iGoogle in November, so perhaps this is just part of the plan. I don't get how shutting down two of it's services so many people enjoy is a good business decision. This is just going to drive me away from Google! Oh well.

In the meantime, I am going to start transferring all my blog subscriptions over to Bloglovin.  Click here to check it out.


Follow my blog with Bloglovin

In other news, my whole family is sick this week and so I have not put together more pattern designer interviews. But they are forthcoming. As soon as I feel better. 





Thursday, March 7, 2013

Amy of Brownie Goose - Pattern Designer Interview











1. When did you start designing patterns and how did it come about?

  i started designing around the fall of 2008, formally. i guess you can say i always sort of dwindled it, mostly because i am quite short and petite so i have always had to change things up a bit to fit. i started my children's clothing company in november of 2008 and quickly learned that to have an edge i needed to be different. so, i got to work putting patterns on paper and sewing many, many muslins until i had some great slopers to work with. from there, i realized how much fun i had making things exactly how i wanted them. this pleased my inner control freak like a child with candy. 

2. What training do you have or how did you learn?
 
I am lucky to come from a family of amazing seamstresses. the apple doesn't fall far from the tree, so my mother, grandmother and great-grandmother suffered from the same short/petite issue i do. we also tend to be tinkerers, always like to have something in the works. my great-grandmother was extremely talented as a pattern designer. she watched me some when i was little and i can remember her drawing patterns on paper grocery sacks and being awed as they came to life with her sewing skills. growing up, there was always a sewing machine running and thankfully these wonderful ladies taught me what they knew, and better yet - taught me how to work my way around a design so that i wasn't dependent on a pattern. i have no formal training, but like to think i was taught by the best. 

3. What is the process of designing a new pattern like?
 
pattern design to me is a whirl-wind. i tend to fall off my rocker a bit from the moment a new idea pops into my head until the moment i have it drafted. i get most of my inspirations through music, and sometimes i can be driving down the road listening to a song and bam, it hits me. i see a dress, or a neckline or a detail and i must go home and sketch. seriously, i let nothing get in my way until i sketch. this part is extremely hard as a mother of young children. confession - during design i could easily stay in my sewing room day in, day out until i have it all done. however, my kiddos require their mommy, so i try to adapt myself and not lose myself completely in slopes, measurements, curves, etc. it involves a lot of drawing, a lot of holding my mouth just right, many, many drafts on tracing paper, a tremendous amount of temper tantrums and bad words, holding my mouth just right, muslins galore, did i mention holding my mouth just right, and that final moment which is just about as euphoric as it gets...when the final product comes to life, and better yet...works. 





4. What is the hardest part about designing a pattern in pdf form?
 
for me, the hardest part is the amount of time that goes into it. as i said, i stay home with my young kids and i don't often have uninterrupted time to devote to all the steps that go into a pattern. i wouldn't trade my sweet kiddos for the world though, but finding the balance is by far the hardest for me.

5. What is your favorite of your patterns and why?
 
phew, this is a tough one. i fall madly in love with patterns easily. especially when they finally come to life after i spend hours on hours dreaming and pouring every free moment into them. i actually just went into my folders to see if i could decide on a favorite. i love different aspects of each one. honestly i do. i have a thing for a vintage look, therefore i LOVE the short little dresses like hattie and betsy. but then, i also adore the sweetness of the katie top with the darby shorts. and just today my little boy is wearing a version of the henry pant and i cannot stop feeling the need to pinch his sweet little hiney in the cute pants. so see, i really do love them all. i am that mommy that simply cannot play favorites. haha.




6. Do you sew for your own family or for sale? What do you prefer more, sewing or pattern design, and why?
 
i no longer sew for the public, unless i am making a gift or something of the sort. however, that is how my business started, believe it or not. i have just switched over to the world of pattern sales over the last year and a half. it works better for me and my family for the moment, and in all honesty - it makes a more sane amy when i am not making the same item over and over and over again. i love to sew for my family. i love that my kids still want to wear things i make them. i love that i can sew for my family. i'd have to say that the design side is probably my favorite aspect of it. to me, there is an immense sense of pride when something goes from and idea to an actual product that people can use and create their own creations from it. when i see people sharing the clothing that they made from my pdfs, it honestly fills my heart with such happiness and pride that i cannot hardly stand it. i never tire of seeing what everyone does and how they put their own spins to it and such. i still feel absolutely honored when business owners chose my creations to use on their clothing lines. i don't think the coolness factor of that will ever dwindle for me. i loves it. 

7. Have you learned anything from feedback from customers that you would like to share with other designers or wanna-be designers?
 
i think one of the best things you can do as a designer is to encourage your customers. i try to explain each and every step in the easiest way possible so that everyone (whether beginner or expert) feels a sense of confidence and pride in their sewing creations. i love to hear customers tell me that they never thought they could actually sew a garment that their children can actually wear, but they did. i sometimes wish i could be right there to see the joy in their faces. but maybe that is the sewing dork in me. i remember one of my first patterns that i published, sara of molly blossom tested for me. in her feedback, she told me of one of the parts of the pattern "these steps sound confusing, as i can almost sense your hesitation and anxiety." and she was exactly right. from that point on, i made sure i was confident in my steps and directions so that no one reading it felt they couldn't do it. 




8. Best time and place to design?
 
whenever i get the opportunity. haha. no really, designs seem to come to me at the most inopportune times. you know, right before the crazy afternoon hours in which all kiddos under your roof scream bloody murder and you are busy trying to cook dinner and appear you've had it all under control for when your husband comes home. or, in the middle of the night. one time i was in the middle of a run, and a dress came to me (thanks to the talent of led zeppelin on my pandora) and i swanny i averaged the quickest miles ever trying to get back home to sketch. i do love night sewing, once everyone is asleep - but i have become quite the ninny lately and haven't made it past 9 pm. confessions...

 9. Favorite fabric of all time?

i have a thing for joel. this is no secret. while i love all of his designs, his old stuff talks to me. i also love everything about the belle line from amy butler. if it is out of print and hard to find, you can almost guarantee i am going to like it. 

10. Favorite thing to do for fun?
 
put me outside with the sun shining, temps in the upper 60's, doggies rolling in the grass, kids running all around being their usual hooligan selves with some music on. best day ever. 
 Aren't you enjoying this series! Love these ladies. More to come!! 


Tuesday, March 5, 2013

The Mean Princess - pattern designer interview

Today, I am starting a new series on Handmade Dress Haven called the Pattern Designer Interview.  I happen to know quite a few lovely and talented pattern designers. I feel blessed to have them in my life, not only to sew their patterns but also to chat with them. I call them my friends, even though I have never met them "in real life."   They inspire me with their creativity, generosity, and overall good will.  I asked them all the same questions and will be sharing all their answers.

First up, Meagan of The Mean Princess




1. When did you start designing patterns and how did it come about?

I started of necessity. My daughter was starting kindergarten and needed a art smock. I wanted something different then the things I saw in the stores, something custom. A friend of mine sewed but I couldn't afford the $40 for a apron she was going to make. So I went to a quilt shop, got fabric. I taped printer paper together and held it to my child and drew out the shape.......there was my 1st pattern!

2. What training do you have or how did you learn?

I have had no formal training. I will say it's in the blood line, I am a 4th generation seamstress/designer. I taught myself by talking my daughters outgrown clothing apart, looking inside all garments as the went into the wash. I had used PDF's and kind of saw the "trend" in sizing in certain areas.

3. What is the process of designing a new pattern like?

It's wonderful yet maddening.....you have this idea yet your mind works far faster than your hands. It generally starts with a sketch which looks like a kindergartener's work, hehe. The the drafting on paper with rulers, compass, french curves and a GOOD eraser. It can take a day or it can take week for the drafting part only. Then you have sewing, pictures and instructions to add. 

 


4. What is the hardest part about designing a pattern in pdf form?

Personally for me, I know it's different to all designers, is the instructions. It's mind numbingly painful, for me.


5. What is your favorite of your patterns and why?

Gosh, they are all my babies. Taylor was my 1st and she will always have a special place in my heart but I think Mae. There are so many options and I really think she will be a great basic pattern but she can be dressed up too. 





6. Do you sew for your own family or for sale? What do you prefer more, sewing or pattern design, and why?

I do sew for members of my little family of three. I do also sew for pay from time to time for extra money and because I started off that way, I don't want my long term customers to be let down. I adore them. I prefer design, it is like breathing to me......it's a necessity to me. Being creative is my therapy, my passion, it's me. I do have to take a break from it and just sew or I get myself in a tizzy. 


7. Have you learned anything from feedback from customers that you would like to share with other designers or wanna-be designers?

No matter how simply you think something is, someone else will find it complex. 

Addison pants and Lucy Top





8. Best time and place to design?

Rainy days in my studio


9. Favorite fabric of all time?

Ooooooo, that's hard. Probably Anna Maria Horner Loulou Thi, that is my favorite I have actually owned. 


10. Favorite thing to do for fun?

Snuggle up and watch a good movie with the family, either all in the bed big or drag a mattress in the living room in front of a fire. Oooo, we need to do that soon! Maybe also roast marshmallows too!


Hope you enjoy the read!  
Be sure to check out this sweet lady's patterns and tell her I sent you.